Udderlicious - Long Review
A colourful facade for the covent garden branch transitions to a warm and fun lounge once you step inside. One glance at the well-stocked deep store display and suddenly it makes sense. The thoughtfully designed space makes you feel at home instantly. So the invitation was accepted. There was a thoughtful and imaginative flavour menu one of which was fuelled by a monthly public vote.
The chocolate and sea salt sorbet kicked off proceedings. There was a strong colour saturation with a good helping of glossy surface texture. It gave off strong nutty and caramel essences which were pleasantly inviting. The silky feeling on the tongue was initially a solitary sensation. Gradually the middle phase filled out with complex cocoa notes battling with the salts as it continued to evenly coat the mouth, almost like a mousse. There was an unmistakable bitterness but the salt was bringing out the cocoa successfully. The late phase comes and goes too quickly with no aftertaste to speak of. Overall a strong and complex midphase mouthful but ending too soon.
The next choice pushed the boat out to espresso and chocolate biscotti. It was concoction of gelato, biscotti and nutella cream. There was a strong visual interplay between the different components. The initial weak filtered coffee flavour which greeted the nose quickly transforms into a strong coffee flavour as it melts. There is final milky flourish which overall brings out an affogato quality. The nutella did independently stay back and took a more leisurely approach on the tongue. This discohesion detracted from the otherwise coffee hit.
The pastel green shade of the pistachio was a calming and gentle finish. There was a mild pistachio flavour at the end of a cold and even mouthful. It felt even and smooth. The sweetness balanced the nutty flavour but failed to extract any stronger notes. It was a little underwhelming overall and not a flavour to go solo with.
Overall, the venue and progressive flavour choices guarantees repeat visits if for nothing else, than to sit on the swing and try the latest public vote.
24 Earlham Street, WC2H 9LN and other sites in London (Upper Street – Please see website)